It’s a wine lover’s dream. Oltrepò Pavese, in southern Lombardy, has an fascinating hilly panorama, a mosaic of vineyards contoured by woodland, a sprinkling of castles and stone villages, and an intriguing variety of wineries making quite a few wines. Nearly undiscovered by tourism, it’s residence to a couple of Italy’s most extraordinarily regarded Riesling and Pinot Nero (the latter in variations ranging from bone-dry DOCG spumante to riserva) alongside participating native varieties harking back to the colorful, juicy purple Croatina.
The indications are there: Oltrepò Pavese is on the so-called ‘forty fifth parallel’ (the imaginary line halfway between the equator and the North Pole that moreover consists of Bordeaux, the northern Rhône and Piedmont) and on the map the world even resembles a bunch of grapes. This wedge of land is bordered by Piedmont, Liguria and Emilia Romagna, and takes influences from each. It begins on the plains south of the Po river (Oltrepò Pavese means ‘Pavia’s lands previous the Po’) and stretches southwards, rising as a lot as a lofty 1,725m above sea stage.
The Oltrepò hills take pleasure in widespread breezes – vital for shielding delicate Pinot Nero grapes from humidity – and considerable day-night temperature swings which help to develop the elegant aromas that winemakers try for. In line with regional figures, there are about 3,000ha of Pinot Nero planted, and manufacturing of this choice in Oltrepò Pavese represents 75% of Italy’s nationwide output.
Credit score rating: JP Map Graphics Ltd
Family background
Pinot Nero was first planted proper right here throughout the mid-Nineteenth century by Conte Vistarino, great-great-grandfather of the eponymous property’s current proprietor Ottavia, one amongst many dynamic younger-generation producers now working Oltrepò wineries. She recognises the importance of her 300ha of woodland with its richness of biodiversity. Investments on the large 826ha property (102ha beneath vine), east of Montalto Pavese, embody eco-friendly cellar experience and downsized wine manufacturing specializing in top quality. Standard-method/metodo classico glowing expressions have on a regular basis taken centre-stage proper right here, and together with glowing wines such as a result of the lemon-fresh, 60 month matured 100% Pinot Nero 1865, the property produces quite a lot of nonetheless wines along with three Pinot Nero riserva crus (amongst them the DWWA 2024 Silver medal-winner Pernice 2020) and expressive Riesling from vines on chalky terrain.
The great variety of soils is significant to the usual and character of Oltrepò wines. Even on small estates, winemakers are able to decide on grapes from vines planted on clay, sand, chalk or gravel-based soils on north- or south-facing plots. ‘Now we have now loads of fulfilling proper right here,’ confirms Giulio Fiamberti with attribute enthusiasm.
Entertaining excursions await on the historic family winery of Giulio Fiamberti in Canneto Pavese, near Broni
His excursions are fulfilling, too, with barrel tastings and impromptu blends. Fiamberti’s family has been producing wine for larger than 200 years throughout the picturesque hills of Canneto Pavese, the place slopes shall be challengingly steep. This spot is residence to Buttafuoco DOC – a rich, spicy, fruit-filled purple made principally with Croatina and Barbera, plus Uva Rara and Vespolina (domestically generally called Ughetta) – and the nonetheless, frizzante and spumante Sangue di Giuda DOC sweet reds from the similar varieties. The Buttafuoco Storico affiliation, created in 1996 to uphold conventional variations of Buttafuoco, harking back to Fiamberti’s Vigna Solenga, has a self-imposed protocol calling for three-year ageing and single-vineyard self-discipline blends of the usual grapes.
Progressive pondering
On the jap fringe of Oltrepò Pavese, Alessio Brandolini was the first to provide metodo classico glowing Pinot Nero at his family winery near San Damiano al Colle, making deliciously versatile rosé and white variations. As Brandolini explains: ‘All via Oltrepò Pavese, spumante is made with very low, or no, dosage as our wines have loads pure building we merely don’t need the sugar.’ He is at current experimenting with ‘perpetual reserve’ solera-system spumante, along with making intensely fragrant Croatina. Shut by, at Santa Maria della Versa, the Calatroni winery offers weekend lunches with property wines (the Riva Rinetti Pas Dosé 2018 acquired a Silver at this 12 months’s DWWA), and actions that embody cookery programs and vineyard treks.
One different winemaker smitten by experimenting is Roberto Gerbino of Le Fracce, situated further west near Casteggio, a vital wine centre since historic cases, with a extreme focus of historic wineries in hanging locations. That features a elegant residence initially constructed as a convent throughout the seventeenth century, the property is run by a foundation created by its late proprietor to promote evaluation and information in wine manufacturing and paintings. There’s a gallery of ‘outsider paintings’, and memorable collections of basic automobiles and carriages. Inside the vineyards, Gerbino is implementing the outcomes of a severe enterprise into water stress administration. His wines embody a refined Zero Dosage Pinot Nero, and reds combining Pinot Nero with Croatina and Barbera.
Micro-vinifications are the order of the day every at Le Fracce and at neighbouring winery Tenuta Mazzolino, the place 39 plots have been acknowledged over the 20ha of vineyards surrounding an enthralling villa and yard. Proprietor Francesca Seralvo took over from her grandfather 10 years up to now and benefits from the long-term consultancy of foremost Burgundy winemaker Kyriakos Kynigopoulos for wines that embody stylish Chardonnay and Pinot Nero.
My wonderful day in Oltrepò Pavese
Morning
Start the day with a swim throughout the salt-water biopool overlooking vines at Prime Alture. After breakfast on the terrace or throughout the light-filled restaurant, it’s solely a 10-minute drive to Tenuta Frecciarossa. Meet the home house owners and stroll by way of the property accompanied by their good-natured canine. See livestock and an incredible variety of crops along with the vines.
Lunch & afternoon
Hold for lunch on the nice farmhouse, perhaps risotto with home-grown greens, paired with the property’s metodo classico Riesling. Head south into the hills, stopping to take pleasure in views over the beautiful Tenuta Travaglino property from its Large Bench viewpoint, proceed earlier Montalto Pavese and its hilltop fort sooner than reaching Rocca de’ Giorgi. Proper right here at Tenuta Conte Vistarino, the place the world’s first Pinot Nero was planted, dive into the heritage of Oltrepò Pavese and elegance utterly totally different renditions of the Pinot Nero grape.
Tenuta Conte Vistarino. Credit score rating: Alessandro Castiglioni
Evening
Taking a 20-minute drive north to Canneto Pavese, stop first at Casa del Buttafuoco Storico wine bar for a tasting of typical Buttafuoco wines, then for dinner at Ristorante Bazzini. Try typical braised beef-filled ravioli and cheeses from Il Boscasso proper right here, with wine from the prolonged guidelines of solely Oltrepò Pavese labels. End the day once more at Prime Alture, the place you could open a bottle from the in-room wine fridge and profit from the night air on the patio.
Trip vibes
Pinot Nero is the undisputed sovereign amongst Oltrepò Pavese grape varieties and whereas most producers make a diffusion of assorted sorts, Ballabio, primarily based in 1905, makes nothing nevertheless metodo classico, with unimaginable outcomes. Its range takes the establish Farfalla (‘butterfly’) in reference to the type of its most prestigious plot. Pinot Nero dominates the 20ha beneath vine at Ballabio’s neighbour, century-old Tenuta Frecciarossa, the place the ambiance is of a bucolic idyll. Cattle, chickens and bees contribute to the biodiversity. Proprietor Valeria Radici-Odero objectives for sustainability and, as far as doable, self-sufficiency, using home-produced flour, fruit and greens on the property restaurant.
Moreover with restaurant and rooms, the stylish Prime Alture wine resort is run with brio by Roberto Lechiancole, an aerospace entrepreneur from Milan who had no idea of the great thing about Oltrepò Pavese until flying over by helicopter looking for a countryside property to buy elsewhere. Vines embody the resort and Lechiancole lives above the winery. ‘I actually really feel like I’m utterly on trip,’ he jokes, radiating his intense love for the place. Shut by in Calvignano village, Tenuta Travaglino is a uncommon place, the place fallow deer roam the park and wine cellars shall be current in a Twelfth-century monastery owned by the similar family since 1868. Riesling Renano – pretty than the a lot much less superior Riesling Italico – was launched throughout the Nineteen Seventies and divulges its ageworthiness in wines such as a result of the Campo della Fojada riserva.
Nature & nurture
Whereas the vines stop at about 600m, it is successfully worth venturing further into the hills for further spectacular panoramas and villages harking back to Zavattarello, dominated by the imposing Castello dal Verme. There’s heaps for walkers and cyclists proper right here and all via Oltrepò, and shut by at Valverde there is a nature reserve boasting an distinctive vary of butterflies. About 12km south is the attractive stone-built centre of Varzi, a village celebrated for its fragrant salami made with superior cuts of pork and garlic soaked in purple wine. Most wineries present some with tastings, whereas the devoted Che Salame! competitors takes place proper right here each June.
Spring and autumn are wonderful cases for visiting Oltrepò Pavese. With tastings, excursions and events, the Oltrepò Pageant is held in Would possibly, whereas in early October (5-Seventh this 12 months) Pinot Nero in all its variations is broadly recognized with a worldwide event, and native meals and wine is showcased at Autunno Pavese (4-Seventh) in Pavia.
How one can get there
Oltrepò Pavese is about 60km south of Milan Linate airport, 80km north of Genoa, or an hour’s drive from each.
Your Oltrepò Pavese deal with book
Lodging
Borgo dei Gatti
Lodging is in a set of fantastically restored properties throughout the fairly village of Golferenzo. Breakfast is delivered to your door, and there’s a spa along with an outstanding restaurant, wine bar and pizzeria.
La Locanda Calvignano
5 straightforward rooms adorned with a light-weight updated contact, with inspiring views and a restaurant serving typical dishes. On the precept freeway west of Montalto Pavese, it’s owned by the Tenuta Travaglino property, a easy 10-minute stroll away.
Prime Alture
This welcoming, quietly refined winery resort throughout the countryside south of Casteggio has six spacious rooms, each with a wine fridge and low machine. There could also be an open-air saltwater pool, wellness house and restaurant with floor-to-ceiling house home windows and panoramic terrace. primealture.it
Consuming locations
All’Avamposto
Take pleasure in a meal over the majestic river Po with nice views from the cabin-style inside or terrace of this informal restaurant in Portalbera. Day-to-day dishes might embody perch-filled pasta and native charcuterie. Boat journeys with lunch are moreover organised.
Borgo Santuletta
A dizzying array of basic furnishings and decor characterise this agriturismo with bedrooms, a pool and picturesque farmyard in Santa Giuletta. The fixed-menu meals, which can be paired with spectacular property wines, incorporate home-produced greens and eggs.
Frecciarossa
An interesting farmhouse location at Tronconero with courtyard tables, engaging interiors, and dishes made with property sourced greens, flour and eggs all make this winery wonderful for a weekend lunch. Simple lodging might be obtainable.
Points to do
Cheese at Il Boscasso
In Ruino, go to the herd of 50-plus alpine goats and buy award-winning goat cheeses, along with saffron-flavoured and blue cheeses (identify upfront). Increased nonetheless, book for Sunday lunch to take pleasure in cheese-based dishes with native wines.
Goat’s cheese at Il Boscasso, Ruino
Village to village
The realm’s many charming villages embody Zavattarello, dominated by the spectacular medieval Dal Verme fort and Varzi, famed for its standing DOP salami and the beginning line of the 90km By the use of del Sale strolling path south to Portofino.
Wine tasting
For tastings and purchases of Oltrepò Pavese wines, or just to take pleasure in a glass, go to Enoteca Regionale della Lombardia merely 4km southwest of Broni and Casa del Buttafuoco Storico in Vigalone, southeast of Broni. Every have wine bars serving typical snacks and lunches.