It’s a wine lover’s dream. Oltrepò Pavese, in southern Lombardy, has an fascinating hilly panorama, a mosaic of vineyards contoured by woodland, a sprinkling of castles and stone villages, and an intriguing variety of wineries making quite a few wines. Nearly undiscovered by tourism, it’s residence to a couple of Italy’s most extraordinarily regarded Riesling and Pinot Nero (the latter in variations ranging from bone-dry DOCG spumante to riserva) alongside participating native varieties harking back to the colorful, juicy purple Croatina.
The indications are there: Oltrepò Pavese is on the so-called ‘forty fifth parallel’ (the imaginary line halfway between the equator and the North Pole that moreover consists of Bordeaux, the northern Rhône and Piedmont) and on the map the world even resembles a bunch of grapes. This wedge of land is bordered by Piedmont, Liguria and Emilia Romagna, and takes influences from each. It begins on the plains south of the Po river (Oltrepò Pavese means ‘Pavia’s lands previous the Po’) and stretches southwards, rising as a lot as a lofty 1,725m above sea stage.
The Oltrepò hills take pleasure in widespread breezes – vital for shielding delicate Pinot Nero grapes from humidity – and considerable day-night temperature swings which help to develop the elegant aromas that winemakers try for. In line with regional figures, there are about 3,000ha of Pinot Nero planted, and manufacturing of this choice in Oltrepò Pavese represents 75% of Italy’s nationwide output.
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Family background
Pinot Nero was first planted proper right here throughout the mid-Nineteenth century by Conte Vistarino, great-great-grandfather of the eponymous property’s current proprietor Ottavia, one amongst many dynamic younger-generation producers now working Oltrepò wineries. She recognises the importance of her 300ha of woodland with its richness of biodiversity. Investments on the large 826ha property (102ha beneath vine), east of Montalto Pavese, embody eco-friendly cellar experience and downsized wine manufacturing specializing in top quality. Standard-method/metodo classico glowing expressions have on a regular basis taken centre-stage proper right here, and together with glowing wines such as a result of the lemon-fresh, 60 month matured 100% Pinot Nero 1865, the property produces quite a lot of nonetheless wines along with three Pinot Nero riserva crus (amongst them the DWWA 2024 Silver medal-winner Pernice 2020) and expressive Riesling from vines on chalky terrain.
The great variety of soils is significant to the usual and character of Oltrepò wines. Even on small estates, winemakers are able to decide on grapes from vines planted on clay, sand, chalk or gravel-based soils on north- or south-facing plots. ‘Now we have now loads of fulfilling proper right here,’ confirms Giulio Fiamberti with attribute enthusiasm.
Entertaining excursions await on the historic family winery of Giulio Fiamberti in Canneto Pavese, near Broni
His excursions are fulfilling, too, with barrel tastings and impromptu blends. Fiamberti’s family has been producing wine for larger than 200 years throughout the picturesque hills of Canneto Pavese, the place slopes shall be challengingly steep. This spot is residence to Buttafuoco DOC – a rich, spicy, fruit-filled purple made principally with Croatina and Barbera, plus Uva Rara and Vespolina (domestically generally called Ughetta) – and the nonetheless, frizzante and spumante Sangue di Giuda DOC sweet reds from the similar varieties. The Buttafuoco Storico affiliation, created in 1996 to uphold conventional variations of Buttafuoco, harking back to Fiamberti’s Vigna Solenga, has a self-imposed protocol calling for three-year ageing and single-vineyard self-discipline blends of the usual grapes.